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Subject: 5/28, day 32, 15 mi, 10170 elev
Road walked from Chama to Cumbres Pass - about 13 miles with 2500 feet of elevation gain. Along the way we found Colorado.

We were so excited about the expansive views and beautiful mountains that we took lots of pictures. Saw an elk on the road and a beaver dam across a culvert that passed under the highway.

Had big discussions about whether or not to carry ice axes. The locals pretty much talked us into shipping them home. As we sit in our tent at 10,000 feet we can see small patches of snow. It is going to get cold tonight.

The guy who took several other hikers from Chama to Cumbres Pass was still at the pass. He was trying to be helpful, but was handing out lots of misinformation. "No cows up here." "That road is the trail." After walking the road and seeing cow pies we realized we were supposed to be on trail tread. We went cross country to find the trail. He also told us there was no water - water was all over. We remembered our own advice on the PCT - listen to the advice, but make your own decisions.

... Gottawalk

Subject: 5/29, day 33, 12,187', 20.2 mi.
A multitude of birds woke us. Ken stepped into the brisk air and an elk and her calf left our stand of pines. The day and trail went up from there. Both have been spectacular: our first log crossing, wildflowers (many new to us), deer, views in any direction, real trail, snow patches and running water and good smelling mountain air.

Lunch is on a ridge looking down at Trujillo Reservoir. Shoes, inserts and socks are off so feet can dry and get an application of ointment. Cheese & crackers, dried fruit and Gatorade are inhaled and then we’re on our way.

... Gottawalk

Subject: 5/30, day 34, 18.8 miles, 12,000+'
We were surprised at how warm we stayed last night. Camped between 2 lakes with ice on them and amid patches of snow.

South San Juan Wilderness is incredibly beautiful. And we haven't seen anyone since Cumbres Pass. Seeing lots of flowers just starting to bloom. Still lots of patches of snow in the heavy trees or on the north side of mountains. We finally saw marmots, frogs, chipmunks, deer and elk.

Our route finding has changed in CO. We are using Natl. Geographic's Trails Illustrated beautiful series. They are multi colored and depict the CDT in red. However, the CDT isn't always on the ground. Both sets of guidebooks are written for a southbound hiker. All of Jim Wolf's are written in that direction, but Westcliffe published all except CO for northbound hikers. It's hilarious trying to reverse prose (when the trail disappears hike across the meadow at a compass bearing of 170*, ignoring the cairns...). We do like puzzles

I have one clean foot and one disgustingly dusty foot. The clean foot broke through a snow bridge into a creek. I didn't want to put the other foot down and risk getting it wet $ cold so stood with one foot knee deep in snow and ankle deep in water. We were both laughing when Ken pulled me out by the haul strap on my backpack.

Good, fun, interesting hiking.

... Gottawalk

Subject: 5/31, day 345, 14 mi, 12850'
Tough day. We were constantly route finding in the snow, or climbing or both. We need more red blood cells to carry O2. Ken thinks the answer is prime rib when we get to town. We feel like we eat constantly and feel great at the altitude. Climbing just makes us feel like our lungs are several sizes too small! Nearly all day was spent above 12,000 feet. We even camped at 12,500 when we ran out of daylight.

We try to get miles but our pace is slow in snow. We really enjoy the challenge, though. We see more animal prints than human prints. At several snow banks we said "Why would hikers take that route across the snow? Doesn't look practical or safe." Turns out it was elk or deer who posthole in the snow and the tracks melt out larger. Marmots here are golden and don't whistle as much as coastal marmots. No picas yet. Lots of various birdsongs.

... Gottawalk

Subject: 6/1, day 36, 21.1 mi., 12,800'
We camped at the best spot in the world! It had a million stars, we were above tree line and warm and comfy behind one small dense bush on flat shale. It was light very early.

Starting our 6th week and really earned our miles to Pagosa Springs by 7:30 this eve. Thought we could just cruise into town but ran into high winds and enough raindrops to make us suit up and cover packs...then quit raining and cleared as soon as we got all the raingear on. :-) Wind that beat anything NM had got stronger as we climbed up the divide. Trail was not like anything we've done before...kind of the epitome of hiking. Some places the divide is very wide and rolls up & down. Today it got rocky and narrow above Wolf Creek Pass and the ski resort that was our road to town. Finally saw people at the road that asked if we were CDT hikers and then 1000 questions started. I handed out our hiker card, said answers are on our web site, and we need food.

We are at Best Western in Pagosa Springs and can get mail Monday. We need 24 hours to seam seal our tent. The few raindrops made us realize that we shouldn't push our luck any longer. Cuba & Chama are forwarding to here, so maybe it's cookie time, too. Yum. We’re looking like hikers: dirty (doing laundry now), too brown in spite of sunscreen and long clothes, and thinner from burning calories at high altitude.

... Gottawalk