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We entered Shenandoah NP when we started hiking this morning which means that we are required to stay in a shelter and hang our food as protection from bears. Eight guys and Marcia are in a two level hut that could probably hold a dozen. When the hut is full then camping is allowed subject to lots of restrictions.

Tipperary called today's weather "lively" which meant that wind blowing the clouds kept us guessing. Sucker holes opened and closed. Thus, it was to cold for Hike Naked Day and besides the NP gives out citations. I wasn't planning to participate and thankfully did not run into any other hikers celebrating.

We ate breakfast at the motel and Nick drove us to a supermarket for fresh lunch supplies. We were whining in front of the cookie selection because we can't find west coast brands that we like out here. Tipperary, who did mission work in Brazil, said that Brazilians have a saying, "He who does not have a dog hunts with a cat." So we will eat whatever cookies are available and Boogie, the Princess cat, will get new job skills when we get home. Hiking through the park is pleasant. There are stores and restaurants available but Tipperary thought the park would be like a stroll through Covent Garden with Coke machines every 100 yards!

During the afternoon hike we saw a gigantic bear print in the muddy trail. Everyone who saw it was carefully scanning the woods for the next mile. No one reported seeing the bear. Two section hikers did see a bear with 3 cubs near out shelter shortly before we arrived.

Nick joined us on the trail and we all walked back to the car together for the last time. Tipperary will spend one more night in Waynesboro and Nick will fly back to Lagos, Nigeria after a stop in England to see family

We ate lunch at Loft Mtn grill. Food we would usually consider overpriced and mediocre tasted so good that I thought about ordering the same again except I knew that I would get "town tummy". We followed up with Sees candy that we are carrying from Father's Day.

We saw lots of habituated deer and one doe with the tiniest spotted fawn that we have ever seen. Cottontails hop fearlessly down the trail. 

We got to the hut before our 8 pm stop time. There was still room for us but lots of people. It made cooking and setting up slow. AWOL had a Jiffy Pop that he popped over his little stove. We'll have to try that some night.

Today was a low energy day for hiking. The weather was great for hiking - about 70* and sunny above the tree cover. We found a camp store about 1 pm and ate ice cream and drank Pepsi. AWOL joined us on the trail a short while later and our energy seemed to pick up.

Our good deed today was that we helped some day hikers find a large spring. Somehow they were walking the wrong direction on the AT.

We saw lots more deer including another tiny spotted fawn. This one disappeared into the forest before we could get its picture.

We ate supper at Panorama tonight. It used to have a restaurant, but now only has a snack bar that closes early. After eating we hiked 1.4 miles to the shelter and set up our tent. We saw momma bear and 2 cubs right behind Panorama. And heard another bear in a tree. We couldn't see it, but we recognized the scratching sound of bears climbing trees and the huffing sounds. From reading the register at this shelter it sounds like lots of bear activity around here.

We should get out of the park tomorrow. It is about 24 miles, but generally downhill. We hope the trails are not as rocky as they were this afternoon!

Trail was varied and interesting today and the best stop was Elkwallow Wayside for lunch. Ken's blackberry milkshake was so good that he went back for a blackberry sundae. Marcia took all the coins that have accumulated and asked for a piece of fudge worth the total. That worked!

We crossed Skyline Drive several times and the weather is good enough to see into the distance at overlooks. The day was quite warm (not complaining!) and an unexpected treat was a spring flowing across the AT as we were climbing in the afternoon. We dropped our packs in an instant and put bandanas and shirts in the trickle and washed legs, arms, faces and wet our hair. We filtered the cool water and drank until we couldn't hold any more. By the time the shirts and bandanas were wrung out the final time my fingers were very cold. I really enjoyed the contrasts. Another extra bonus was that the flies left us alone while we were wet. We'll have to remember that trick.

On the climb up South Marshall in the heat of the afternoon we got to within 10 feet of a bear. It was quite an adrenalin rush when the big ball of black fur took off into the woods from so close. He must have been asleep (like a couple of backpackers).

Fannypack, a former hiker, sent us an e-mail with food and animal opportunities and hut ratings. We have taken his suggestions and enjoyed the food and found bears. It's a small, wonderful world.

The exciting part of today was finding a skunk right in the middle of the trail. First it went to the left and ran into a link fence, then down the trail to US 522. After determining neither of those routes would allow it to escape it turned right down the highway. We got several good pictures of the shaggy skunk. It had more white than any skunk either of us had ever seen.

The teacher of the third grade class following our hike sent See's truffles to this PO. The postal worker looked twice without finding the box. Who ate the truffles??